In a past post, I wrote about how the 1854 gold standard was lowered. As a result of this change in the amount of gold required for jewelry to be officially 'gold', gold items became easier to make. Before that govenment issue however, jewelers creatively developed a way to make gold jewelry appear to have more gold than it did:
The following is from this site:http://antiquesshop.org/victorianjewlery.htm
The Romantic period (1837-1860) in Victorian jewelry was sparked by the wedding of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1840. Since the supply of gold was inadequate at that time, thin sheets of gold were worked upon to impart the illusion of mass and size to the jewels of the early Romantic period.
It seems more research must be gathered in order to make a full understanding of what happened then. Time will tell!
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Friday, March 21, 2008
The Mother of Pearl
Mother of pearl, also called nacre, (the same stuff of pearls, just a different shape) has for a long time been seen as beautiful. As you may have read, (if you're a loyal follower of my internet travels, and researches) mother of pearl was used in brooches a good deal in Victorian Jewelry. It was used in pique work as well. (Pique work is basically an inlay of precious metals into another substance).
So where did the Victorians get their gorgeous iridescent argonite and elastic bipolymers which constitute nacre? Australia of course! From oysters in Northwestern Australia, to be more specific, mainly for inlay material and buttons.
For a neat article on mother of pearl buttons click on the title link! You'll find some neat stuff about American history (including Ronald Regan).
So where did the Victorians get their gorgeous iridescent argonite and elastic bipolymers which constitute nacre? Australia of course! From oysters in Northwestern Australia, to be more specific, mainly for inlay material and buttons.
For a neat article on mother of pearl buttons click on the title link! You'll find some neat stuff about American history (including Ronald Regan).
Thursday, March 20, 2008
The Heritage of a Necklace
It's amazing how people can forever change history by altering heirlooms. This is a piece of such a history. It's about a necklace and the desires of royalty.
For your delectation:
The story begins in December 1857 when, as a result of a claim initiated by George III's fifth son, Ernest, Duke of Cumberland (from 1837 King of Hanover), Queen Victoria lost to Hanover a significant part of the family jewels she had regarded as her own. Greatly chagrined, she ordered Garrards to replace the lost jewels by taking stones from 'swords and useless things'. For this necklace, twenty-eight stones were removed from two Garter badges and a sword hilt. At the same time, the central pendant of the 'Timur Ruby' necklace, known as the Lahore Diamond, was made detachable for use as the pendant on this necklace; and two of the smaller pendants from the same necklace, originally the side stones in the Indian setting of the Koh-i Nûr, were made detachable for use as earrings (with additional stones taken from an aigrette and a Garter star). The charge for making the necklace was £65 and for making up the earrings £23 10s.
That's some seriously bling Victorian jewelry! To read the full story of what happened to the necklace after Queen Victoria's remodeling, click on the title link.
For your delectation:
The story begins in December 1857 when, as a result of a claim initiated by George III's fifth son, Ernest, Duke of Cumberland (from 1837 King of Hanover), Queen Victoria lost to Hanover a significant part of the family jewels she had regarded as her own. Greatly chagrined, she ordered Garrards to replace the lost jewels by taking stones from 'swords and useless things'. For this necklace, twenty-eight stones were removed from two Garter badges and a sword hilt. At the same time, the central pendant of the 'Timur Ruby' necklace, known as the Lahore Diamond, was made detachable for use as the pendant on this necklace; and two of the smaller pendants from the same necklace, originally the side stones in the Indian setting of the Koh-i Nûr, were made detachable for use as earrings (with additional stones taken from an aigrette and a Garter star). The charge for making the necklace was £65 and for making up the earrings £23 10s.
That's some seriously bling Victorian jewelry! To read the full story of what happened to the necklace after Queen Victoria's remodeling, click on the title link.
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Of Silver at Tiffany's and Queen VIctoria's Engagement Ring
Tiffany's opened in 1837 (the year Queen Victoria was crowned!) The company only started selling silver ten years later, at which time the artistic silversmith Edward C. Moore joined Tiffany's as a contractor. Later, he became a full time employee in 1868.
On February 10, 1840 Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were married. They gave away more than five dozen rings with Victoria's profile engraved on them, at the ceremony. Pretty neat idea huh.
The Queen's engagement ring was that of a snake, with an emerald, as it was an acceptable thing to use a birthstone as one's engagement gem. The snake motif was thought to be a symbol of eternal love, and good luck. That's quite a different idea from what it is now!
On a side note, in 1901 (the year of Victoria's death), on the date that would be their anniversary, the actress Stella Adler was born.
On February 10, 1840 Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were married. They gave away more than five dozen rings with Victoria's profile engraved on them, at the ceremony. Pretty neat idea huh.
The Queen's engagement ring was that of a snake, with an emerald, as it was an acceptable thing to use a birthstone as one's engagement gem. The snake motif was thought to be a symbol of eternal love, and good luck. That's quite a different idea from what it is now!
On a side note, in 1901 (the year of Victoria's death), on the date that would be their anniversary, the actress Stella Adler was born.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Garnet: Pyrope, A Beautifully Red Gem
Pyrope was particularly favored as a gem in the Victorian "Grand Period". It was then called bohemian garnet, and was used quite a bit in mid-Victorian jewelry.
Deposits of pyrope garnets were greatly mined around Czechoslovakia, in Trebenice; and that's why the gem's name included the word "Bohemian". However, the Gemological Institute of America (GMI) frowns upon the term.
Pyrope style garnet has many different names other than bohemian, two of which are chrome pyrope (perhaps because chromium is part of its chemical makeup) or carbuncle(a very old name, people don't use it much nowadays except in old stories). There are more deceptive terms, some of which are:
American Ruby
Arizona Ruby
Australian Ruby
Bohemian Ruby
California Ruby
Colorado Ruby
Elie Ruby
Rocky Mountain Ruby
As you can see, the term "ruby" is used to make people think the gem is of a different composition.
Some sources say pyrope comes from a Greek word meaning 'fire like', while others claim it comes from the Greek words for 'fire' and 'eye.'
Something I really was amazed by was that in 1892, during battles along the Kashmir frontier, the Hanza tribesmen fired on British soldiers with garnet bullets, believing them to be more effective than lead bullets. Truth can be stranger than fiction!
On a side note, the Garnet Hill Recreation Area near Ely, Nevada lets people mine for garnets for free. Maybe I'll go sometime, and take some friends with me!
Deposits of pyrope garnets were greatly mined around Czechoslovakia, in Trebenice; and that's why the gem's name included the word "Bohemian". However, the Gemological Institute of America (GMI) frowns upon the term.
Pyrope style garnet has many different names other than bohemian, two of which are chrome pyrope (perhaps because chromium is part of its chemical makeup) or carbuncle(a very old name, people don't use it much nowadays except in old stories). There are more deceptive terms, some of which are:
American Ruby
Arizona Ruby
Australian Ruby
Bohemian Ruby
California Ruby
Colorado Ruby
Elie Ruby
Rocky Mountain Ruby
As you can see, the term "ruby" is used to make people think the gem is of a different composition.
Some sources say pyrope comes from a Greek word meaning 'fire like', while others claim it comes from the Greek words for 'fire' and 'eye.'
Something I really was amazed by was that in 1892, during battles along the Kashmir frontier, the Hanza tribesmen fired on British soldiers with garnet bullets, believing them to be more effective than lead bullets. Truth can be stranger than fiction!
On a side note, the Garnet Hill Recreation Area near Ely, Nevada lets people mine for garnets for free. Maybe I'll go sometime, and take some friends with me!
Monday, March 17, 2008
Related Facts on Victorian Scottish Jewelry
As is already known, Scottish jewelry was popularized by Victoria (and Albert), during the Romantic Period (1837-1860). Here's some more of what I found out about that time:
Many times misidentified as 'Scotch topaz' or 'smoky topaz' the most popular gem in Scottish degined jewelry was caringorm. A black to brown to tea colored stone no longer found anywhere including the place it was mined: The Scottish Highlands (hence the name caringorm, from the mountain range). The gem is a variety of smoky quartz, it's color caused by irradiation of rock crystal with aluminum impurities.
Enameled bracelets patterned with family tartan colors and pins and pins were very popular Scottish jewelry pieces. A good deal of Scottish style jewelry was silver, though some were made using gold. Bloodstone, carnelian, moss agate and (as previously mentioned) caringorm and enamel were among the most common gems found in Scottish Victorian Jewelry.
Many times misidentified as 'Scotch topaz' or 'smoky topaz' the most popular gem in Scottish degined jewelry was caringorm. A black to brown to tea colored stone no longer found anywhere including the place it was mined: The Scottish Highlands (hence the name caringorm, from the mountain range). The gem is a variety of smoky quartz, it's color caused by irradiation of rock crystal with aluminum impurities.
Enameled bracelets patterned with family tartan colors and pins and pins were very popular Scottish jewelry pieces. A good deal of Scottish style jewelry was silver, though some were made using gold. Bloodstone, carnelian, moss agate and (as previously mentioned) caringorm and enamel were among the most common gems found in Scottish Victorian Jewelry.
Friday, March 14, 2008
Somethings on Gold that Happened in Victoria's Reign
From 1851 to the late 1860s, an Australian gold rush took place in the state of Victoria. In that time, Victoria was the largest exporter of gold in the world.
Early Victorian gold pieces could vary from 18 to 22 karat. Then in 1854, the Stamp Act was passed, which made gold content standardized at 9, 12, or 15 karats. It also made jewelry producers obligated to hallmark their pieces declaring the karat number.
Jewelers could then start to experiment with different types of casting, like chasing and granulation. Because the gold standard was less, gold jewelry was easier to buy. Hurrah for parliamentary change! It can make the economy grow!
Early Victorian gold pieces could vary from 18 to 22 karat. Then in 1854, the Stamp Act was passed, which made gold content standardized at 9, 12, or 15 karats. It also made jewelry producers obligated to hallmark their pieces declaring the karat number.
Jewelers could then start to experiment with different types of casting, like chasing and granulation. Because the gold standard was less, gold jewelry was easier to buy. Hurrah for parliamentary change! It can make the economy grow!
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Related Facts: Diamonds & Queen Victoria
The Excelsior Diamond was found on June 30, 1893 at the Jagersfontein Mine.
Weighing in at a huge 971-3/4 carats, the gem was later altered to ten stones ranging from 13 to 68 carats. It was the largest Diamond known prior to the Cullinan.
The Cullinan was found in 1905, an immense 3,106.75 carats. Huge! It was later given to King Edward VII. The gem was cut into three large parts by Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, and eventually into some 11 large gem-quality stones and a number of smaller fragments. The largest polished gem from the stone is a 530.2 carat stone named the Great Star of Africa or Cullinan I.
A second very large gem from the original Cullinan stone is the Cullinan II (also known as the Lesser Star of Africa,); and is 317.4 carats. It's also part of the British crown jewels, as it's including the Imperial State Crown.
Incidentally, the Imperial State Crown has several precious gems, including: 2,868 diamonds, 11 emeralds 273 pearls, 5 rubies, and 17 sapphires. That's 2.006 206 586 02 lbs. (910g) Yikes, that must be heavy if you've gotta wear it for hours! No wonder Queen Victoria had that smaller crown made!
Weighing in at a huge 971-3/4 carats, the gem was later altered to ten stones ranging from 13 to 68 carats. It was the largest Diamond known prior to the Cullinan.
The Cullinan was found in 1905, an immense 3,106.75 carats. Huge! It was later given to King Edward VII. The gem was cut into three large parts by Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, and eventually into some 11 large gem-quality stones and a number of smaller fragments. The largest polished gem from the stone is a 530.2 carat stone named the Great Star of Africa or Cullinan I.
A second very large gem from the original Cullinan stone is the Cullinan II (also known as the Lesser Star of Africa,); and is 317.4 carats. It's also part of the British crown jewels, as it's including the Imperial State Crown.
Incidentally, the Imperial State Crown has several precious gems, including: 2,868 diamonds, 11 emeralds 273 pearls, 5 rubies, and 17 sapphires. That's 2.006 206 586 02 lbs. (910g) Yikes, that must be heavy if you've gotta wear it for hours! No wonder Queen Victoria had that smaller crown made!
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
A Little Something Rose Cut Diamonds
Victoria’s crown was made not long after large diamond deposits were found in South Africa in 1867. That was when the lower price and availability brought them to the market place. Electric lighting also increased interest in the use of diamonds in jewelry in the 1880’s. They can be referred to as sparkle diamonds.
One of the types of cuts used was the rose cut. The rose cut came in two versions. These were the single and double which were flat on the bottom. A single rose cut has, as you would think, a single layer of horizontal facets. While a double rose has two horizontal layers of facets.
Of course there is the exception. The Dutch rose cuts are deep or high and can have three rows of horizontal facets. While the facet can range from one that is more raw to prepared. You will also see that they are not perfectly round but that adds to their individuality.
Today, the rose cut is still used for melee diamonds (the little gems that accent a big one). Besides being used for accents, there is an increasing desire for rose cuts in order to create reproductions of these antique works of art. Also, for repairing genuinely antique works.
One of the types of cuts used was the rose cut. The rose cut came in two versions. These were the single and double which were flat on the bottom. A single rose cut has, as you would think, a single layer of horizontal facets. While a double rose has two horizontal layers of facets.
Of course there is the exception. The Dutch rose cuts are deep or high and can have three rows of horizontal facets. While the facet can range from one that is more raw to prepared. You will also see that they are not perfectly round but that adds to their individuality.
Today, the rose cut is still used for melee diamonds (the little gems that accent a big one). Besides being used for accents, there is an increasing desire for rose cuts in order to create reproductions of these antique works of art. Also, for repairing genuinely antique works.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
The Lovely Crown of Victoria
An Overview
After her dear Prince Albert died, Queen Victoria wore a mourning veil permanently. When it was time to come back into public view in 1870, she found the Imperial State Crown was difficult to wear with her veil. Besides that, it hurt. As ever an independent spirit, Queen Victoria decided to create her own crown. R & S Garrard and Company was charged with the making of it. She found that the smaller crown worked well.
So, what was the crown made of? She had a diamond necklace comprised of 1,187 diamonds that she used for it. Diamonds were proper to wear, when in mourning. The metal used was silver. The crown was quite small, only 9cm across and 10cm high!
Officially first worn on February 9, 1871, technically it was not part of the royal jewels….it was hers and hers alone. But, she did will it to the British Crown Jewels, enabling future Queens the right to wear it.
Alas, in the ‘30s the Queen consort Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon ended it all, by declining that right. The beautiful crown of that famous queen Victoria then found a home in the Tower of London, were it remains on display.
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Victorian Scottish Jewelry
The influence of Queen Victoria was wide spread. An example of this is with Scottish Agate Jewelry. Victoria brought about the interest in Scotland with her visits to her castle of Balmoral in Scotland starting in the late 1840s.
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